Ancient but modern, religious but secular, traditional but cosmopolitan, conservative but progressive, intense but laid-back, Israel is country, where God-centered religions come together, has, ironically or consequentially, been at war ever since its inception in 1948, and yet it remains a magnet for travelers due to its Biblical history and sacred Jewish, Christian and Muslim sights.

The history of ancient Canaan, renamed Israel by the Jewish tribes who settled it in the 13th c., came to an end in 70 AD with the Roman explosion of Jews and the destruction of Jerusalem and its Temple, the spiritual heart of Judaism. The history of Israel from then on became the history of the Jewish diaspora. More or less maintaining endogamy, the Jews spread throughout the Mediterranean world and then to Central and Eastern Europe and as far as the Russian Empire as Spain and Portugal expelled them at the end of the 15th c. After the Iberian exodus, many set up shop in Northern Italy where they have contributed to the rise of banking, which fueled the Renaissance and capitalism. The atrocities of the Holocaust (over 6 million Jews were exterminated, including the whole family of my grandmother who went to visit an aunt in Kiev from her village on the Polish border as Germany unexpectedly invaded the USSR), begged for the rectification of history’s injustices by the long-awaited (and tirelessly promoted by the Zionist nationalist movement) goal of the Jewish state. Britain, the colonial power who came to control the region past the First World War, promised to create home for Jews in Palestine despite Arab protests referring the case to a commission set up by the newly created United Nations. The majority (including the USSR and USA) voted for the Partition Plan, which divided Palestine into a majority Jewish and a minority Arab state with many of the best agricultural lands given to Israel and dividing the Arab territory into two separated parts, as well as keeping Jerusalem shared. The Arab countries including Egypt, Iraq and Saudi Arabia, voted against it. Arab leaders also boycotted the UN commission’s work thus unable to add their input. The plan’s implementation in 1948 as Israel unilaterally declared its independence, immediately unleashed a serious of wars between Israel and its Arab neighbors with Israel conquering all of Palestine, East Jerusalem and the Golan Heights from Syria (the Sinai Peninsula was returned to Egypt with the US mediation). The plight of the Palestinians commenced: over 750,000 had to flee their homes to neighboring countries in what’s known as Nakhba (“catastrophe”) in the face of the occupation regime compared by many to South Africa’s apartheid. The status quo remains with radical forces on both sides refusing to accept each other’s existence. In the latest development, Gaza’s Hamas’s brutally attacked in October 2023 with over 1000 victims. Israel, supported by the US, in return annihilated Gaza together with almost 50 thousand victims, mostly civilian in the face of the disbelief and inaction of the international community. This long-lasting post-colonial conflict remains a major source of global political instability and demands a permanent solution. Meanwhile, the latest escalation has worsened Israel’s global standing with many post-colonial countries severing diplomatic relations (Colombia, Bolivia, Nicaragua). South Africa brought charges of genocide against Israel in theInternational Court of Justice, and won arrest orders against Israel’s Prime Minister. It will take an enormous amount of goodwill and international pressure to resolve this Gordian’s knot.

Israel is a parliamentary democracy with a complex and often polarized political landscape. The country’s politics are shaped by deep divisions between secular and religious communities, left and right-wing ideologies, and the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Security concerns and military service play a significant role in national identity and political discourse. Israeli elections frequently result in coalition governments, reflecting the diverse and fragmented nature of its society. While it remains a close ally of the United States and a technological leader, its policies regarding Palestinian territories have led to diplomatic tensions, particularly with parts of Europe, the Arab world, and emerging global powers. The most recent conflicts, including the 2023 war in Gaza, have further strained its international standing, with accusations of human rights violations and increased calls for a resolution to the long-standing post-colonial conflict.

Israel boasts a highly developed and innovation-driven economy, often referred to as the "Start-Up Nation." With a robust technology sector specializing in cybersecurity, artificial intelligence, and medical advancements, it attracts global investment. Tel Aviv serves as a financial and tech hub, rivaling Silicon Valley in entrepreneurship. Agriculture remains remarkably advanced, with desert irrigation techniques turning arid lands into fertile farmland. The country also has a strong defense industry, exporting cutting-edge military technology worldwide. However, the economy faces challenges, including high living costs, housing shortages, and economic disparities between different social groups. While Israel maintains one of the highest GDPs per capita in the region, economic inequality remains a significant issue, particularly affecting Arab-Israeli communities and ultra-Orthodox populations.

Israelis are known for their directness, warmth, and resilience. The country is home to a diverse mix of Jewish immigrants from Europe, North Africa, the Middle East, and the former Soviet Union, alongside an Arab minority that includes Muslims, Christians, and Druze. This melting pot of cultures results in a society that is both dynamic and deeply complex. Family and community ties are strong, and social interactions can be lively, sometimes bordering on aggressive, but always passionate. Military service plays a defining role in shaping Israeli identity, as most Jewish citizens serve in the Israel Defense Forces (IDF), fostering a sense of national duty and camaraderie. Israelis are also known for their entrepreneurial spirit, adaptability, and ability to thrive in a high-pressure environment.

Israeli culture is a fusion of influences from across the Jewish diaspora, Middle Eastern traditions, and Mediterranean lifestyles. Hebrew, a once-extinct biblical language, has been revived as the national tongue, while cultural expressions range from European-inspired classical music to Yemenite-influenced pop and Mizrahi rhythms. Literature, theater, and film thrive, with Israeli cinema earning international recognition. The kibbutz movement, a socialist farming collective once central to Israeli life, has largely faded, but its legacy remains in the country’s communal ethos. Tel Aviv, a global hub of LGBTQ+ culture and nightlife, contrasts with Jerusalem’s intensely religious atmosphere. Festivals such as Purim, Passover, and Yom Kippur dictate the rhythm of life, while Independence Day celebrations and Holocaust Remembrance Day reflect the nation’s complex history.

Israeli cuisine is a flavorful blend of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Jewish culinary traditions. The quality and freshness of food is just excellent. Falafel, hummus, and shawarma are everyday staples, while shakshuka—poached eggs in a spiced tomato sauce—has become a beloved dish. Fresh produce is abundant, with vibrant markets offering olives, cheeses, and aromatic spices. Jewish culinary influences range from Eastern European Ashkenazi dishes, like matzo ball soup, to the Sephardic tradition of slow-cooked stews such as cholent. The café culture is strong, with Israelis passionate about their coffee, especially the thick, cardamom-infused "botz" (mud coffee). Desserts like rugelach (sweet pastries) and malabi (rosewater pudding) provide a sweet finish. Israeli wine, particularly from the Galilee and Judean Hills, is gaining global recognition.

I have been to Israel quite a few times, sightseeing but also visiting friends and relatives. I had a very memorable trip visiting Christian sites with my mom and our friend Maria shortly before my mom passed away, leaving a special place for Israel in my heart. After taking time to explore Jerusalem’s out-of-this-world eternal medieval quarter and religious sites and partaking of Tel Aviv’s night life and food scene, it’s a good idea to rent a car and drive around the country. The Dead Sea is a natural wonder and floating on top of its waters was unforgettable. The Negev Desert and the Red Sea at Eilat can be worth a quick visit but the best lies up North. I really enjoyed visiting the Christian sites of Capernaum and Bethsaida on the banks of the Sea of Galilee (made famous by Jesus who most lived and preached in its vicinity. Going North from there, one passes through beautiful and green mountains before reaching Haifa whose famous Bahai gardens are gorgeous. Another charming place is Caesaria where Herod the Great and Pontius Pilate had seaside residences. For the description of my travel tips to Jerusalem’s Old City, please see the section on Palestine. Israel is expensive but the food is excellent — always fresh and abundant. Fresh pita, hummus and falafel are inexpensive and ubiquitous.

Israel is an intense, rewarding destination, but it requires some planning. Security is omnipresent—expect bag checks at public places and military presence, especially in Jerusalem. Public transport is efficient, with trains and buses connecting major cities, but everything shuts down for Shabbat (Friday evening to Saturday night), so plan accordingly. Israel is expensive—accommodation, food, and attractions can add up quickly, but cheap eats like falafel and hummus are widely available. When visiting religious sites, dress modestly, especially in Jerusalem. Renting a car allows for easy exploration beyond the cities, whether driving through the desert to Eilat or tracing biblical history in Galilee. The Dead Sea is a must—just avoid shaving beforehand (the salt will sting!).