While many know only about Machu Pichu when they think of Peru, it is a rewarding country with a wealth of archeological, cultural and natural treasures to explore, let alone possibly the best cuisine in Latin America.

Peru is firmly associated with the Inca Empire. The highly-advanced civilization with no wheel or a written script, was able to amass a gigantic empire that stretched from today’s Colombia to Bolivia and Argentina, all connected with a network of 40,000 km (24,000 miles) of roads along which runners delivered messengers for the country’s elite, which oversaw the state apparatus. The totalitarian state overtook the lives of the working population from assigning professions to distributing food, arranging marriages and even taking care of the disabled and the elderly. In the process of this agglomeration, the empire forged an indigenous nation united by the common language (today called Ketchua with some Aimara areas), and this massive indigenous population is still present in the sierras of Peru today defining the country’s culture and politics. In 1532, Pizarro practically brought down the mighty Inca Empire in a day by capturing the Inca, and Lima became the capital of Viceroyalty of Peru and of Spanish Latin America. The indigenous people were forced into brutal mining operations, particularly in Potosí, which supplied vast amounts of silver to the Spanish Crown. Catholicism was imposed, yet Andean religious traditions persisted, blending into a unique syncretic faith. Rebellions against Spanish rule occurred, the most famous being the uprising led by Túpac Amaru II in 1780, which was brutally suppressed but planted the seeds of future resistance. Aristocratic Lima was the center of royalist resistance to the liberation efforts of Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin (up to now Lima is home to some of the wealthiest individuals and families in South America reflecting the country’s wealth of natural resources). Initially, Peru became part of Bolívar’s vision for a united Gran Colombia but seceded in 1827, as national identity and regional conflicts grew stronger. The newly independent Peru then found itself entangled in border disputes and struggles to consolidate its government, often oscillating between military rule and civilian governance. During the War of the Pacific (1879–1884), Peru fought Chile alongside Bolivia to defend its nitrate-rich territories in the Atacama Desert, but superior Chilean forces occupied Lima in 1881. The war ended in a devastating loss for Peru, which ceded the province of Tarapacá to Chile and saw widespread economic and infrastructural damage fostering a lasting sense of rivalry and historical grievance toward Chile. In the 20th c., Peru went through periods of dictatorship, military coups, and economic hardship, culminating in the rise of the Maoist guerrilla group, the Shining Path, in the 1980s. The ensuing internal conflict led to thousands of deaths and widespread human rights abuses before the group was largely defeated in the 1990s under President Alberto Fujimori. Most of the political life in the country has been dominated by conservative money elites, and corruption is ever present, with many Peru’s presidents ending up on the run or in jail after embezzlement scandals.

Peru’s political landscape remains volatile, characterized by deep-seated corruption, economic inequality, and social unrest. The country is a presidential democracy, but frequent scandals have made political leadership notoriously unstable. Many presidents have ended up imprisoned or embroiled in corruption cases, reflecting the broader challenge of governance. Political debates revolve around indigenous rights, resource management, and economic disparity, particularly between the affluent coastal cities and the impoverished rural highlands. While Lima’s elite class has historically dominated politics, indigenous movements have grown in influence, challenging the status quo and demanding greater representation.

Peru boasts one of South America’s fastest-growing economies, driven by mining, agriculture, and tourism. The country is a leading exporter of copper, gold, and silver, with its vast mineral wealth attracting foreign investment. Agriculture remains a vital sector, with products like quinoa, avocados, and coffee gaining international acclaim. The fishing industry, particularly anchovy production, plays a crucial role in global food supply chains. However, economic inequality remains stark—while Lima enjoys modern infrastructure and a thriving culinary scene, many indigenous communities in the Andean and Amazonian regions struggle with poverty, lack of access to education, and basic healthcare. The informal economy is vast, and corruption remains an obstacle to equitable development.

Peruvian society is deeply stratified, reflecting the country's colonial past and ethnic diversity. The indigenous population, particularly the Quechua and Aymara peoples, remains concentrated in the Andean highlands, where traditional ways of life endure. In contrast, Lima’s coastal population is more cosmopolitan and European-influenced, while the Amazonian regions exhibit distinct indigenous and Afro-Peruvian cultural traditions. Peruvians can sometimes come across as reserved, particularly in the highlands, where a history of marginalization has fostered a degree of caution towards outsiders. However, hospitality is an integral part of Peruvian culture, and once trust is established, interactions become warm and welcoming. The Selva (Amazonian) region stands out for its outgoing, fun-loving spirit, a stark contrast to Lima’s formality or the Sierras’ reserved nature.

Peru’s cultural richness is a blend of its pre-Columbian heritage, Spanish colonial legacy, and modern artistic expressions. The country's ancient past is evident in its countless archaeological sites, from the Nazca Lines to the ruins of Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the world. Colonial architecture flourishes in cities like Arequipa and Cusco, blending Spanish baroque with indigenous motifs. Traditional Andean music, featuring pan flutes and charangos, remains a cultural staple, while Afro-Peruvian rhythms and Amazonian tribal traditions add to the country's musical diversity. Festivals such as Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) in Cusco celebrate indigenous heritage, while Catholic processions reflect Peru’s deep religious roots. Museums like Museo Larco in Lima offer fascinating insights into Peru’s artistic and historical legacy.

Peru is arguably Latin America’s culinary capital, boasting one of the most diverse and refined cuisines in the world. Drawing from indigenous, Spanish, African, and Asian influences, Peruvian food is a sensory experience. Ceviche, the national dish, features fresh raw fish marinated in lime juice and served with corn and sweet potatoes. Lomo saltado is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian flavors, with stir-fried beef, onions, and tomatoes served over fries and rice. Papa a la Huancaína, a creamy, spicy potato dish, and causa, a layered potato and seafood dish, showcase the country’s love for tubers. Arroz con pato (duck with cilantro-infused rice) is a northern specialty, while the iconic pisco sour is the drink of choice, made from grape brandy, lime, egg white, and bitters. The country’s culinary prowess has earned Lima a reputation as a global food destination, with restaurants like Central and Maido ranking among the best in the world.

I have spent quite some time in Lima, a vibrant city of over 10 million people, made to it Cusco, Valle Sagrado and Machu Pichu, and some sites around Lima, such as Ika and Churin. While most visitors head straight to Machu Pichu (which is, of course, quite special and is worth the visit), Lima is not to be missed with Miraflores and Barranco safe for pedestrians and full of museums and excellent restaurants (I like many Peruvian dishes such as papa a la Huancaina, lomo saltado, arroz con pato, causa, and, of course, ceviche and pisco sour). There are many interesting trips around Lima – archeological from the archeological sites within the city limits to the desert oasis of Huacachina in Ica, to the famous Lines of Nasca and Churin, a small town in the mountains with a number of medicinal hot springs. Cusco and the Sacred Valley are full of Inca history (but much colder). The tropical Selva region is a gateway to the Peruvian Amazon and has started to attract ecotourists and adventurers to its river island city of Iquitos and the jungle hub of Tarapoto. The warm, fun-loving and laid-back culture in the Selva region is strikingly different from the haughty Lima or the reserved Sierras. The city of Arequipa doesn’t even consider itself Peruvian culturally and is a favorite destination for Peruvians due to its well-preserved colonial architecture, breathtaking natural surroundings and a well-educated population.

Traveling in Peru requires preparation, especially for altitude changes—Cusco and Machu Picchu can leave visitors breathless in more ways than one. Lima’s weather is deceptive; though the city sees little rain, its gray coastal mist can make it feel colder than expected. Transport can be chaotic—while buses are the main mode of travel between cities, domestic flights save time when covering long distances. Safety is generally not an issue in tourist areas, but petty crime, particularly in Lima, warrants caution. Food lovers should seek out local markets and family-run eateries, where the best traditional dishes are found at a fraction of the cost of high-end restaurants. And finally, while Machu Picchu is a must-see, venturing off the beaten path to places like Arequipa, the Amazon, or the desert landscapes of Ica reveals a more nuanced, diverse Peru—one that is endlessly fascinating and rewarding to explore.