Calm, organized and harmonious with nature, Latvia is a hidden gem of the Baltics. It is a country of ancient forests, medieval towns, and a rich cultural heritage that often goes unnoticed in mainstream tourism. Situated at the crossroads of Germanic, Slavic, and Scandinavian influences, Latvia retains a strong Baltic identity, blending pagan traditions with European modernity. Its capital, Riga, is a stunning showcase of both German medieval and Latvian Art Nouveau architecture, while the country’s pristine nature offers endless opportunities for exploration.

Latvia’s history is one of foreign domination and national resilience. The indigenous Baltic tribes (Latgalians, Semigallians, Coronians and Livonians) were among the last in Europe to convert to Christianity, resisting the Teutonic Order’s crusades until the 13th c.. German bishop Albert of Buxthoeven founded Riga in 1201. German knights ruled but the Baltic population (residing in the countryside) retained their languages and traditions. A major Hanseatic trade center due its access to sea, it became the center of the Teutonic Livonian Confederation (including Estonia as well) until 1561, when after a major regional war, the country was split between Sweden (including Riga) and Poland-Lithuania. In the 18th c. the Russian Empire gained control of all of Latvia dividing it into 3 provinces of Courland, Livonia and Latgale. Russia brought rural serfdom but urban prosperity, as Riga flourished as one of the empire’s wealthiest industrial cities. The Latvian National Awakening of the 19th c. laid the foundation for independence, finally achieved in 1918, following World War I and the dissolution of the Russian Empire. First Prime Minister Karlis Ulmanis helped established a multicultural democracy, spurred economic growth but staged a coup in 1934 establishing a personal dictatorship and annihilating minority rights. Latvia’s German population was forcibly repatriated to Germany. Latvia’s brief independence ended in 1940, when the Soviet Union annexed it under the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. Nazi Germany occupied Latvia administering it as part of Reichskommissariat Ostland. Some Latvians collaborated with the Nazis, while others resisted in various underground movements. The Holocaust wiped out much of Latvia’s Jewish population (70,000). As the Red Army recaptured Latvia in 1944, the postwar Soviet period saw mass deportations, industrialization, and Russification. The Latvian independence movement grew in the 1980s, especially under Mikhail Gorbachev’s policies of Perestroika and Glasnost. Latvia regained independence in 1991 through the Singing Revolution, a peaceful movement where Latvians used traditional folk songs to assert their identity. After the collapse of the USSR and has since integrated into the EU and NATO, reclaiming its place as a Baltic success story.

Latvia is a parliamentary democracy, with a multiparty system often dominated by coalition governments. As a former Soviet republic, it has remained wary of Russian influence, strengthening its ties to the EU and NATO. Political debates often revolve around ethnic identity, economic growth, and social policies. Issues such as Russian minority rights (the Russian-speaking population is about half of Riga’s and Daugavpils’s and about a third of the country’s total), corruption, and demographic decline remain key challenges, but Latvia continues to modernize while preserving its distinct national identity. An important issue has been citizenship — independent Latvia granted citizenship only to pre-1940 Latvian citizens and their descendants creating a large stateless population (about 30%). Since then, emigration and international pressure from minority rights groups and the EU have improved the situation decreasing the number of stateless to 9% in 2022. Newborns are now recognized as Latvian citizens but this issue, as the issue of interethnic peace and cohabitation, remain acute.

Latvia has successfully transitioned from a Soviet-style economy to a modern European market economy. Latvia’s strategic location between Russia, Scandinavia, and Western Europe makes it an important transit country. Over 50% of Latvia is covered in forests, making timber and wood products key exports. Agriculture is well developed — Latvia is famous for its milk products. Latvia is a also leader in digital services, startups, and fintech, with Riga emerging as a tech hub in the Baltics. Riga’s historic Old Town, Art Nouveau district, and vibrant cultural scene attract visitors, while Latvia’s coastline and national parks offer outdoor escapes. Despite strong growth, Latvia faces challenges like rural depopulation, over-reliance on EU funding, and income inequality, as many young Latvians move to other EU countries for work.

Latvians are quiet, independent, and deeply connected to nature. They are known for their love of folklore, music, and the outdoors, and while they may seem reserved at first, they are warm and welcoming once trust is built. Latvian society places a strong emphasis on tradition and national pride, with a deep appreciation for the Latvian language, folk songs, and cultural heritage. There is an understated but fierce patriotism, and while many speak Russian as a second language, the national identity remains deeply Baltic. The younger generations are progressive, multilingual and globally oriented, while older generations often harbor nostalgia for the past or suspicion of rapid modernization.

Latvia has a strong artistic and musical tradition, deeply tied to its folk heritage. Latvian culture is a blend of Baltic heritage, European sophistication, and a touch of Nordic minimalism. Folk choral singing is a national obsession: the Song and Dance Festival, held every five years, is a UNESCO-recognized celebration of Latvian choral music, bringing together thousands of singers. The country has produced notable classical composers like Pēteris Vasks and poets such as Rainis, who shaped Latvia’s national consciousness. Latvia’s wooden architecture, Art Nouveau buildings, and pagan solstice festivals showcase a unique blend of folk traditions and European influence.

Latvian cuisine is simple, hearty, and deeply seasonal, reflecting the country’s Nordic-Baltic climate. Staples include rye bread (my favorite), smoked fish (my other favorite), and root vegetables. Grey peas with bacon (pelēkie zirņi ar speķi) is a national dish, while sklandrausis (carrot and potato-filled rye tart) is a sweet-savory treat. Aukstā zupa, a cold beet soup (and my other favorite), is refreshing in summer, while pīrāgi, small pastries filled with bacon and onion, are a must-try. Latvia also has a strong beer culture, with small local breweries producing excellent craft varieties. Try krupniks – a honey-based liqueur with roots in medieval traditions. Food in Latvia is simple yet deeply satisfying, often enjoyed in cozy taverns or family gatherings.

I visited Riga many summers as a child and a teenager staying with my aunt Lyusya either in Riga or at her summer house in the countryside. I was very much in love with this beautiful calm country, its stunning natural beauty, secluded beaches and thick pine forests, as well as the quaint cozy feel of its medieval architecture. Latvia was a very progressive place during the Soviet period with a rich cultural life. Riga with its Art Nouveau architecture, medieval Old Town, and vibrant café and pub culture, is precious. St. Peter’s Church and the Museum of Riga and Navigation are worth a visit. To experience the countryside and smaller towns, one needs to head to Cēsis with a famous castle and a church but especially Sigulda, the “Switzerland of Latvia”, a springboard for history and nature exploration. Jurmala is a charming seaside resort town just outside of Riga set in a gorgeous pine forest.

Latvia is a small but rewarding country to explore, with a mix of urban elegance and unspoiled nature. Riga is best explored on foot, with the Old Town and Art Nouveau district offering endless discoveries (take one of the many free walking tours). Public transport is reliable, but renting a car allows for easier access to castles, forests, and coastal areas. Winter can be grey, windy, rainy and very cold, so visiting in spring or summer is ideal for festivals and outdoor activities. Latvians may seem reserved, but they warm up quickly, especially over a shared meal or a conversation about history.
Sigulda and Cēsis are must-visit destinations for those who love history, hiking, and medieval ruins. The Jāņi festival (Midsummer) is the best time to experience authentic Latvian culture, with bonfires, singing, and endless celebrations.